Our truck moving chores were completed for the time being and we felt we were ready to move on, maybe find some warmer weather. Our friends, Jacqui and Sergio assured that the weather was much better where they lived in Italy, so we decided to drive 1,000 miles south hoping to reach the Tarisciottis at Alba Adriatica on the east coast in time for Easter.
We stopped one night in Leipzig, Germany and another in Austria before we crossed the Brenner Pass into Italy. The weather was poor which made driving tiring.
Along our route lay the town of Bardolino on the shores of Lake Garda, where, in 2016, the whole family had spent many happy days when Issey and Ame got married in the Bardolino Town Hall. The busy little campsite was on the shore of Lake Garda and within strolling distance of the town centre. We were able to wash the van and do our laundry in the couple of hours before it was time to walk into town for supper.
The next day we went for lunch at Tre Camini where Issey and Ame had held their wedding reception. We had a wonderful meal, rustic cooking but with excellent local ingredients including venison and wild boar. We were flattered when the manager, Michaela, recognised us – until we realised that Ame had telephoned them to say we were coming! Anyway, the local taxi driver certainly remembered us.
Ignore this blog if you like – it’s just me having a grumble at Johnny Foreigner.
It was mid March and the campsite at Poznań was virtually empty, so we were able to choose where we parked our camper. We spread ourselves out a bit and put up our washing line between two trees on the adjacent pitch, where we also parked our hire car.
The following day a couple from Norway arrived in a large camper and they set up home well away from us – a good thing as they were both heavy smokers and bravely sat out under their awning puffing away. The following afternoon we arrived back to the almost empty campsite to find an *elderly Danish couple had parked their caravan on the pitch right bang next to ours, despite our washing hanging out at the back of their pitch. Camp site etiquette says that you protect the privacy of others as much as possible so we just could not understand why this couple chose to park themselves so close to us when there were plenty of alternative spaces.
Malta Camp At Poznań with caravan parked in the adjacent pitch in an otherwise empty site.
They were nice enough people and when I offered to move my washing line away from their pitch, they said it was fine left where it was. They were there for the rest of our stay in Poznań; they packed up and left the morning we moved on. As we drove out of Poznań I felt the urge to check our rear view mirror in case they were stalking us!
Camp sites were very secure places to stay but we wondered whether the Danish caravanners felt the need for the security of another van close by, just as it was for us when we spent the night in an open lorry park. We would never choose to park in a dark, distant corner but always placed ourselves in a well lit area close to other parked HGVs – although many times, when we woke in the morning, the lorries had all driven off and we would find ourselves quite alone!
Despite the importance of privacy on the camp site, social intercourse was always welcome – often conducted without the benefit of a common language. It was usually the menfolk who broke the ice whilst carrying out their outside chores – the chap would wander casually over to a newcomer and exchange pleasantries whilst taking stock of the fellow traveller’s vehicle and equipment – a full report was then given to “her indoors”.
* NB The term “elderly” meant anyone 65 and over. Most of the folk we described as “elderly” in this blog were probably younger than we were!
We spent a few days back in Poznań, before we were told our truck was ready for collection after the completion of the exhaust modifications. We took a Uber taxi from Poznań to Kalinski’s, a thirty minute drive, cost £10.
Tony was delighted with the stainless exhaust modifications, the Manager spoke excellent English and stood watch whilst Tony carefully backed the truck out of the workshop. We drove for another half hour to deliver the truck to the metal fabricators who would fit the frame that will support the habitation box.
Quote from Otto Thierack. Minister of Justice to the Third Reich:
“We must free the German Nation of Poles, Russians, Jews and Gypsies”
Our official tour guide collected us from our camp site and drove us by minibus to Auschwitz and Birkenau. We were surprised how busy it was – the car park was full of coaches. The site had 2.2 million visitors a year, many were youngsters. Our guide explained that it was expected that all Polish school children visit the extermination camps at least once.
After lunch our guide took us on a tour of the nearby city of Kraków. We saw the once prosperous Jewish Quarter from which the Nazis forced thousands of Jews from their homes and herded them into an overcrowded ghetto, surrounded by concrete walls. Many Jews perished in the ghetto through disease and starvation.
The city’s tramway ran through the ghetto but the trams did not stop. People on the outside would risk brutal recrimination trying to help the ghetto dwellers by throwing them food and medicines from the trams. Beyond the ghetto we saw the building which had been the factory of Oscar Schindler (Film: Schinder’s List). We saw the Ghetto Heroes Square which was a memorial to those who had died. In the square were displayed a number of oversize bronze chairs, symbolic of the Jewish diaspora.
I foolishly remarked to our guide that the arrival of the Communists after the war must have seemed a softer option than the brutality of the Nazis. He disagreed saying that the Russians caused more harm to Poland than the Nazis ever did. In order to avoid opposition to the Communist regime, Stalin ordered the annihilation of all Polish dissidents. The military leaders were murdered as well as doctors, professors, lawyers, accountants and teachers. Poland’s educated classes were completely destroyed.
“Those who do not remember the past are condemned to repeat it” George Santayana.
Between 1940 and 1945 the Nazis deported 1,300,000 people to Auschwitz – Jews, Poles, Roma (Gypsies) and prisoners of war. 1,100,000 of these people died in Auschwitz, the majority of them in the gas chambers.
We left Poznań for a four hour drive east to Warsaw, the capital of Poland. It was very cold and an hour before we arrived snow had begun to fall heavily. The main roads remained clear but side roads collected 10cm of snow. Our camp site was 15k from the city centre.
We chose a sunny day to visit the city but the temperature remained below freezing all day. It was so cold I was forced to buy a fur hat!
The old part of the city had been restored after heavy damage during World War 2. Despite its Communist past, Poland remained a deeply Catholic country and we admired Warsaw’s gothic churches as well as its neoclassical palaces, one was home of the Polish President. The wide squares in the old part of town were surrounded by pastel painted buildings. We didn’t stray from the old city and avoided seeing the ugly Soviet era blocks and the modern skyscrapers further out of town.
The temperature that night dropped to -10° and although we were warm enough in the van, the icy conditions caused the boiler freeze valve to release all our water (a safety device). The next morning when we realised we had no water, poor Tony had to spend ages refilling the tank with 120 litres of water from a distant unfrozen tap, using our small watering can – definitely a blue job! The next night we left our gas central heating on to keep the water system above freezing.
We spent a week in Poznań, hiring a car so we could travel around more easily. The weather was very cold, barely getting above 0° but it was mainly dry.
Throughout history Poland had been under constant threat from its more powerful neighbours. From 1795 the country was partitioned between Germany, Austria and Russia and became independent in 1918 after World War 1. In 1939 Poland was invaded by Nazi Germany and, after World War II, Soviet Communism took power. The Polish People’s Republic was established in 1989 and the first elected Prime Minister was Lech Walęsa. Poland joined the European Union in 2004 and a son of Poland, one Donald Tusk, eventually became President of the European Council in 2014.
Many restaurants offered traditional Polish food as well as international cuisine. Everywhere you would find pierogi which were made with dough wrapped around a savoury or sweet filling and cooked in boiling water, sometimes fried afterwards for a crispy result. Potatoes were often served, perfectly boiled or baked in their jackets and sprinkled with fresh herbs. The flavour of the potato was strong and earthy, reminding me of freshly dug from the garden. Beetroot and red cabbage were common, often topped with a hunk of meat – pork, rabbit, venison or duck. Every variety of soup was offered, highly seasoned with some surprising ingredients lurking below the surface – a bowl of meaty soup I had contained half a lightly boiled egg.
We also had these soft steamed bread rolls instead of potatoes, served with a delicious gloopy sauce. They were memorably called pyzy drozdzowe. The meal pictured above cost around £7, including a beer and coffee afterwards.