We were driving north on a road we had travelled before and, by chance, we recognised an art gallery and gardens run by Zaid, a Berber who had studied art in Paris. Zaid was an artist, a conservationist and a student of philosophy; back in the 1970s he found some desert springs covered with years’ accumulation of rubbish. He spent many years clearing the area and building a garden. He dug out the springs, known as Sources Lalla Mimouna, and created three pools. On the site he built a museum displaying the ancient artefacts of the Berber tribes, the indigenous people of Morocco.